Understanding Style

Oroma Elewa, editor, Pop'Africana

Today marks my last day in the States until the Fall. For the next 8 months, I will be living and working in Swaziland and South Africa, both in business and in fashion. This will be the first time in over four years that I will be spending an extended amount of time at home, and I'm both excited and scared.

Style is something that takes time to develop, and on top of that it is constantly changing and adapting new trends. Instead of being one form of self-expression, it is a mosaic of experiences one goes through over time. My personal style for the last four years has been undergoing chameleon changes; from the hippyesque tendencies of Norway to the refined tastes of Europe to the experimental, laissez-faire tendencies of the US.

Personal style is intimately tied to your perception of yourself, or your understanding of your own identity. Being removed from one culture and completely immersed in another, completely different one is a test on this perceived identity. Many of the things that come together to define style are unconscious, which is why style manifests not only in the way you dress, but also in the way you think, interact with others, and my favorite, the way you behave when no one is watching. It's a way of living life.

Thus, going back to Swaziland has me wondering what new traits will attach themselves to my current sense of style, and which will disappear a few days after being back. Will I stop wearing my beloved 6 inch heels in favour of flats or sneakers, and how will that change how I put together an outfit? Will I start wearing big, colourful, custom-made jewelry instead of my Charlotte Russe buy two for $8 earrings and rings? Will I ditch my tank and jeans regime for respectable long skirts and other covering clothes?

There are probably more interesting questions on the topic, and as I get re-Swazied in the way I dress, I hope the mosaic that reveals itself in my personal style is one that reflects the different characteristics I picked up in both Norway and the US, and that these come together into a unique identity.

BUTAN WEAR SA

BUTAN WEAR South Africa is a street wear label promoting the underground culture and urban lifestyle. Launched in Cape Town in 2006, the Butan Wear brand has expanded across the country, and internationally with merchandise available in Switzerland.
As an expression of culture, Butan Wear is also connected with the underground music scene, graphic artists and skateboarders.
Underground urban culture is a dynamic lifestyle influenced by emerging trends merging with old ideologies, and to keep up with this active consciousness, the label evolves with the times. Apparel is made to reflect the zeitgeist as a way of sustaining the urban culture.

JUNYA WATANABE

**This blog is about African Fashion, but now and then I will post about other fashion industries that we can learn from, and that could add to the authenticity and progress of ours.

Junya Watanabe, Fall 2011, The Fashionisto

Junya Watanabe Fall 2011 during Paris Men's Fashion Week was a great collection. The Japanese menswear designer with Comme des Garcons produced a workman-inspired range for Fall, which played around with staples like coats and blazer made with creative and festive patterns and textures.
In particular, I found his knitted blazers so original and chic and wearable, and something that we in the African fashion industry can be inspired by. Imagine experiment with similar blazers, for men and women, but using traditional patterns and redesigning them to produce truly original patterns!

CHIOMA NNANDI ON GARANCE DORE

I was googling CHIOMA NNADI as I'm wont to do on late Friday afternoons, just before my work week ends, to see if she had written anything new of late. I like her style, and she's African, and she writes for VOGUE US!
To my pleasant surprise, she had been snapped and featured today on French blogger, and Scott Schumann's girlfriend's blog, Garance Dore. See, everything does happen for a reason!

Currently with Vogue US, Chioma is former Style Editor for The Fader, a music and lifestyle magazine.

I love it when happy coincidences happen! Source: Garance Dore

CHANEL IMAN FOR ELLE UK

UK magazines always have that thing about them, something in the styling, that I find more appealing that American magazines. Here's an editorial for ELLE UK February 2011 with Chanel Iman, photographed by David Vasilijevic and styled by Anne-Marie Curtis.

In this shoot, Chanel is wearing outfits that capture the design aesthetic of each label, for example romantic Dolce and Gabbana (Italian), biker chic Balmain (French) or Burberry (UK), couture cowgirl Ralph Lauren (American).

DESIGN INDABA EXPO 2011

CAPE TOWN FASHION COUNCIL has chosen eight designers for the 8th Annual DESIGN INDABA EXPO 2011, the largest of its kind which brings fashion buyers and media locally and internationally to view and support design brands in South Africa.

The Design Indaba Expo will be held on February 25 - 27 at the Cape Town International Convention Center. 

Continent Africa clothing, Design Indaba Expo 2011

For the fashion expo under the CTFC umbrella, designers at Design Indaba this year will be: David West, Christopher Strong, Stefania Morland, Doreen Southwood, Baie Nice, Coppelia, Black Coal and The Summit.

The designers will not only have their individual exhibition under the CTFC umbrella, but will also show on the Design Indaba runway. Other support includes: pre-communication to buyers and media, integral stand support, marketing material at the stand, wholesale documentation for buyers, and a changing/packaging/check-out area for customers.

In 2010, the Design Indaba Expo generated R232 million, with R27 million in media value and R123 million on business orders (Barry Standish, University of Cape Town Graduate School of Business), with a significant and positive impact on business-to-business and small and medium enterprises (SMEs).

Source: Cape Town Fashion Council, Design Indaba Expo 2011

Deola Sagoe & Gert-Johan Coetzee

A very exciting thing happened on three separate occasions for the designers Deola Sagoe & Gert-Johan Coeztee this past week.

First, Kourtney Kardashian wore a dress by Coetzee to the People's Choice Awards 2011. This is not only significant because an American celebrity known world-wide wore a Proudly South African design, but because the Kardashians were in Johannesburg in December 2010 for the launch of Brutal Fruity Cheeky Cranberry. It's commendable that they took the time to check out what South African designers have to offer, which cannot be said of most celebrities that come to the Rainbow Nation (ahem....we missed them during Africa Fashion Week 2010 which happened during the World Cup games in June).

 ( See more pictures of the dress and find out which celebrity wore Deola Sagoe after the jump! )

Why is SUNO so successful?

SUNO is a New York based fashion label founded by Max Osterweis in 2008 after more than a decade of collecting fabrics in Kenya. It's designs are known for their clever mixing of prints, in a way that is wearable and modern.

"The design and development for SUNO takes place in NYC, employing skilled sample and pattern makers in NYC's garment district. The majority of  the collection is then produced in Kenya with tailors who, although already quite skilled, also receive regular training by experts brought in by SUNO."


SUNO has been receiving invaluable press coverage from: The Wall Street Journal, VOGUE (several times in the US, Italy, Nippon - Japan), Harper's Bazaar (UK, US and Hong Kong), ELLE, Style.com, Glamour, WWD (Japan), and has been worn by the likes of Rihanna (twice), Katy Perry, Kate Bosworth, Serena of Gossip Girl, Michelle Obama (twice), thanks to the "ethnic trend".

A short-sighted summary of this company would be to say not only does SUNO outsource their labour to Kenya (and India for their beading work) in the name of sustainable and socially responsible business, it also uses the country's rich culture as expressed in the fabric as its foundation.

I prefer to look at it this way: SUNO's success means one important thing for African designers in general: African fabric that has been cleverly designed for the contemporary consumer has a global market, and SUNO has found out what appeals to this consumer.

1. Why is SUNO successful where dozen of African designers in Africa, the United States, France, United Kingdom are struggling? 
2. What can these African designers learn from this American/Kenyan label that will make them just as successful?

DESIGN FOR STYLE Designer Search!

DESIGN FOR STYLE is a recently launched platform for emerging graduate designers in South Africa to show their work through funded fashion shows. Based in Cape Town and Johannesburg, creatively choreographed shows for designers in groups of 3 - 4 are produced, and each designer is given the opportunity to win the attention of buyers, boutique owners, media (bloggers, magazines, etc), photographers and others. Designers pay no fee outside of the production of their lines.

DFS is constantly looking for fresh and skilled designers to participate in one of the shows in Johannesburg or Cape Town. If you are a talented designer with 20 outfits to show, contact info@designforstyle.co.za

Participation is free, and all event and show expenses are covered by Design for Style.

Design for Style, Cape Town, 2010

All content from Design For Style, www.designforstyle.co.za 
Enquiries: info@designforstyle.co.za
Facebook: Design For Style
Twitter: @DesignForStyle

LIYA KEBEDE

Liya Kebede, A Woman Apart, Elle February 2011

LIYA KEBEDE is featured in an editorial for ELLE US February 2011. Photographed David Roemer, and styled by Laura Ferrera, she wears GUCCI, Calvin Klein and Marc Jacobs in the cool and collected editorial of A Woman Apart. Her timeless elegance is as always, breathtaking.

LALESSO

LALESSO, SPRING/SUMMER 2011

LALESSO, a Kenyan-inspired South African womens wear line carrying exclusively Summer/Spring apparel, launched their website today updated with their latest collection. Lalesso is also a carbon zero company, and is among  the first companies too!

GEORGIE BADEIL

Georgie Badiel is a 22-year old model from Burkina Faso. She won the title of Miss Africa in 2005, and debuted on the runway in 2007, walking for Duru Olowu, Ben de Lisi and Jasper Conrad in London. She further walked for Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, DVF, Oscar de la Renta, Bottega Veneta, Dries van Noten, Gambiattista Valli, Rick Owens and others for Paris and New York shows in 2008 and 2009. She also closed for Philip Lim 3.1 and Halston Spring 2008 shows, and opened for Tracy Reese 2010 show in New York.
Georgie has appeared in Biba (France), Vogue Russia, Interview, Essence, I-D, and Elle US.  

One Year of Blogging: What I've Learn't

Hello readers!

The amazing thing about knowledge is this: when you remove the situational space of learning; when you take out the details of a particular learning experience, what you're left with is a conceptual, a philosophical nugget of wisdom that you can apply across the board. For example, I've found that the best motivational and self-developmental books/articles for me are those written in the situation of business management. No Oprah for me, Harvard Business Review is all the self-help I need!

On to the purpose of this post: broadly, the age of internet and more accurately, the progress in real-time communication and subsequent dissolution of geographical boundaries, has spurned an incredible creative revolution in the arts in Africa.

JESSIQUE DESIGNS

Janet Opoku is the founder and head designer of London-based line Jessique Designs. This is a new label focused on womenswear. With western and African influences, Jessique is for the modern-day working woman with a defined sense of personal style. What stands out about the label is the cleanness of the designs, the focus on femininity through its flattering silhouettes, and the timelessness of each piece. So if you're looking for a staple that will work today and ten years from now, Jessique Designs will have something for you.