11.30.2010

THE RISE AND RISE OF BUNMI KOKO

BUNMI KOKO is a luxury fashion house founded by designer Bunmi Olaye and her partner Francis Udom. The relatively young label has been making all the right headlines lately.

Bunmi Olaye is a recent graduate, with honors, of the University of East London (UEL). She burst into the scene with the Geisha Reform Collection during Young Africa Fashion Weekend (YAFW) and Matriarchy Collection during ARISE Africa Fashion Week 2011 in Johannesburg, where she won Emerging Designer of the Year - International Award. She went on to win Women's Entrepreneurship 2009/2010 from UEL upon graduating.


11.27.2010

POP'AFRICANA ISSUE 2

POPAFRICANA.COM released their second issue with blonde model Ajak Deng as the muse.
**Interesting piece of news: before going officially blonde, Ajak was styled by Oroma Elewa, Editor of Pop'Africana, in a blonde wig for the cover picture and feature interview. How about that!

Do read:  
Blonde Ambition - funny interview with Ajak Deng
Sunday Mornings at Sister Sadies - styled and shot by Oroma
Backstage at Ozwald Boateng - for the guys (take some style tips!)
A Conversation With Olufemi - by Seth Markle (this led me to Chimurenga Magazine and the online archives of Steve Biko's Frank Talk Files - definitely check it out)


THE AFRICANA BOOK OF STYLE
YEAR 1, ISSUE 2


Source

11.26.2010

Supporting African Designers

It's "Fashion Friday - Wear Proudly South African" today, and the best South African bloggers have been sharing which designers they're supporting. Milisuthando Bongela, popular blogger, is wearing Black Coffee. Vuyiswa Mutshekwane is sporting Twenty Two. Other popular designers for the day, according to Robyn Cooke of Style Guide Cape Town, include Christopher Strong, Craig Native, Tart, Stiaan Louw, Superella.

As an African fashion enthusiast, you would imagine that my wardrobe is filled with Stoned Cherrie, Cookie Anne, Clive Rundle, KLUK, Christie Brown, Ituen Basi, Boxing Kitten and the rest. Sadly, I only own a purse by Aya Morrison and a couple of tailor-made dresses from a few years ago that no longer fit. My African-inspired wardrobe only extends to Mr. Price, and for one reason only: MR. PRICE IS AFFORDABLE.

HOUSE OF VERSATILE STYLES


Looking through the Black Friday sales notifications on Twitter/Facebook, I followed the 40% off link on House of Versatile Styles' page. I was excited, maybe finally I can afford something. I mean, its Black Friday afterall, the biggest sale of the year in these parts. As you've guessed, I was acutely disappointed to find necklaces for $50 - $80 a piece. If that's how much the accessories cost, what will a legit coat for the winter, or a flirty dress, set me off?

My wardrobe is currently 70% H&M, 20% ZARA and 10% divided between Steve Madden and any other deal I happened upon. Am I a hypocrite? Do I spend hours looking through African designers, and then close up my laptop, and head right into ZARA? NO. The simple reason is this: I have only so much disposable income for shopping, after rent, books, and food. Spending $100 on a dress is unfathomable to me, and H&M provides me with everyday staples for a fraction of the price. Yes, I would love to support my African designers, if not for the fact that they're Africans, then for the reason that they're clothing is really well made. 

CHICHIA LONDON


This problem is one of the big reasons why African designers are struggling with sales - HIGH PRICES. Ladies between the ages of 15-30 make up the largest clientele base, and they also happen to be students, like myself, or just getting themselves financially stable. H&M and others have the comparative advantage of cheaply made clothes, made in places like Bangladesh, China, Vietnam. This means they can afford to set low prices for their garments, prices which are in no way a reflection of the cost of making the garment. If African designers priced at the same level or close, they would soon be out of business. Furthermore, it would be atrocious and ironic to manufacture African garments in China. Thirdly, it would do no one any good to manufacture the clothes in Africa, and pay sweat-shop wages to the factory workers.

URBANKNIT

It's a conundrum: how can African designers price the clothes cheaper so people like me, who appreciate their work, can afford it, without their businesses going bankrupt? Do we have the resources to lower costs of production without lowering minimum wage? Seeing that factories already exist in most African countries, which means we have the structures in place for mass production (in fact, the textile industry in Swaziland is one of the biggest employers in the country), which costs less than hiring tailors to sew in the back of your shop, why do the clothes still cost so much?

Fanele Love
fanelelove@gmail.com

11.25.2010

BHF | The Rise of the African Creative

BHF Magazine has successfully created a new social networking site for African Creatives, the BHF Network. Launched 10 days ago, and with an average of 25 new members per day, the site already has 400 members! A passionate discussion has been a point of convergence for new members. "Is Africa Not Fashionable Enough?" is a blog post by Tomi Talabi, and has spurred informed comments by the BHF Network community.


Some of the features offered by the BHF Network include a personal page, on-site blogging, a weekly feature of African designers and shows, messaging, events, a forum page, videos. The main goal is to promote the African Creative by creating a online community for sharing latest works, viewing past shows, connecting with other creatives, and engaging in passionate discussion.

A maverick African magazine, BHF is known for its quality, its authenticity, and its influence on the contemporary African lifestyle, including music, art, fashion and travel. With a strong online presence through the I Am African campaign, a lively Facebook page and group, and the BHF Unboxed print edition, the BHF Network is the latest venture by creator and director, Geoffrey Olisa.


"BHF - Blessed and Highly Favored"


Hope to see you there!
Fanele Love
Email: fanele@bhfmagazine.com

11.22.2010

Lindiwe Suttle - Vangaurd of African Fashion

Celebrities vanguards of African Fashion? Anna Wintour's legacy has hit our shores.
LINDIWE SUTTLE, songstress, accepted Most Stylish Performer last night during the South African Style Awards 2010, and it was an award well deserved. The South African ambassador for Tom Ford Eyewear was professional and gracious enough to thank designers Clive Rundle (whom she was wearing), Stoned Cherrie, KLUK CGdT, Suzaan Heynes, Philipa Green, and Kuluano Molokomme who had dressed her for various occasions. 


Her style is not pretty - it's fashion like Anna Dello Russo or Lady Gaga- it's art, it makes you react strongly, it never leaves you indifferent. Her riskiest fashion moment was the famous Condom Dress, made by Lara Klawikowski using 20 000 condoms. 
When Anna Wintour diverged from what had been accepted for decades and put actresses and performers - celebrities - instead of models, on the cover of VOGUE Magazine, many were skeptical. But she called it, today it is common for designers to have celebrities as their muses, and for the former to wear the latest collection only a few days after a runway show.
I think it's a brilliant combination, especially when the celebrity is fashion conscious, outside of its popular appeal and more for its artistry.


CONDOM DRESS
Designer: Lara Klawikowski
Photographer: Jonx Pillermer 
 
Source:

11.21.2010

What Does The Design Indaba Annual Conference 2010 Have In Common With VOGUE/CFDA Best Dressed Of The Year?

The Annual  Industry Conference 2010 by the Cape Town Fashion Council and Design Indaba touched on an important subject, particularly for South Africa as Africa's center of fashion. The main problem is: yes, we have incredible talent, but why aren't we making money out of it? More than that, international designers are making a lot of money using us as inspiration, so what is holding our industry back?

Incidentally, last week marked the VOGUE and Council of Fashion Designers America (CFDA) Best Dressed  List 2010, with Blake Lively in a tribal-inspired Marchesa Resort 2011 Collection dress, which she had worn during Fashion's Night Out 2010. Not only was the lively dress worn by Lively trial print, but it was intricately beaded with yellow and black beads that showed a great deal of attention to detail by the designers,and made the dress even more special.

So, how is it that Marchesa gets the praise for essentially an African design?
Read below the thoughts on this matter as discussed during the annual Design Indaba conference.


VOGUE.COM
Week of November 16, 2010
Special Edition: Best Dressed of The Year

The ten individualists whom VOGUE celebrates as the Best Dressed of 2010 are gamely rewriting the rules. Or rather, showing us all that there are no rules beyond staying true to oneself.

1. Blake Lively, The Bombshell, Marchesa Resort 2011 Collection
In a sunny antidote to all of the monochromatic looks that we have been seeing on red carpets from the Venice Film Festival to the Emmy's, Lively stood apart from the pack in a flirty tribal print that caught our attention. She opted for subtle hair and makeup so as to not overwhelm this statement making dress. 

DISCUSSION DURING DESIGN INDABA

Alex Harris, FOSCHINI  (Retailer)
What we're looking at is how we can take design capability here and take it forward. A lot of us are looking at how we can give a vehicle for designers to cotton onto a manufacturing base. Even as retailers, we have a responsibility to help the designers today. Not for ourselves, but to establish the local design and market.

I asked the guys, what are international designers' doing? And I was actually quite horrified. I saw hundreds of thousands of styles, that are going from India, India to London, India to Europe, India to USA, with African inspiration. We've got international designers that are actually using our designs.Why aren't we looking right here? How can we take that inspiration and that excitement that we've got right here to the next level? We provide manufacturing capability as retailers, but I think we need to get our own differentiation into the marketplace.

Mark Gooding, HOUSE OF MONATIC (Retailer)
I think what retailers are learning now is that you create a loyal brand and that people belong to your brand. Our brand differentiation comes from having design elements and doing things unique.

Nkhensani Nkosi, STONED CHERRIE (Designer, Entrepreneur)
If we're saying that design is important part of that, then we need to start engaging young designers, and creating more design entrepreneurs, because I think (presently) the emphasis is on creativity. Although technical skill is obviously everything, we need to create people who can build up businesses. Otherwise we'll constantly have this lopsided industry which currently exists, where there's the illusion of success (for) young designers. It is an illusion because they look great on the ramp, and all of that, but it means nothing because at the end of the day they have no volume, no distribution.
I (also) think we need to be careful that people don't become co-opted into these big institutions, and lose identity and lose authenticity. Creating own brands is fantastic, but are we really tapping into the people who are custodians of design, and who have given their lives towards design?

THE COUNCIL OF FASHION DESIGNERS OF AMERICA (CFDA) AND VOGUE, POSSIBLE TWO OF THE MOST IMPORTANT ENTITIES IN FASHION IN THE WORLD, ACKNOWLEDGE THAT THERE IS A LOT AFRICA CAN GIVE TO FASHION THAT IS UNIQUELY AFRICAN, IS HIGH FASHION, APPEALS TO THE REST OF THE WORLD, AND IS ABOVE ALL, WEARABLE & BANKABLE. 

THE CAPE TOWN FASHION COUNCIL (CTFC) HAS ALSO REALIZED THIS, AND BEING AT THE HELM OF AFRICAN FASHION, HAS TO FIND A WAY TO HARNESS THIS POTENTIAL AND CREATIVITY, AND MAKE SURE THAT AFRICA AND AFRICANS NOT ONLY RECEIVE THE PRAISE FOR SOMETHING THAT BELONGS TO THEM, BUT ALSO RECEIVE THE REVENUE FROM IT. 

Fanele Love

11.20.2010

ELLE New Talent Photographer 2010 Winner

FREDDIE CHILD-VILLERS is the winner for ELLE New Talent Photographer Awards 2010.

"Living in Hout Bay, I've been so fascinated by how elegant and well dressed many of the residents of Imbizo Yethu are, despite being perceived as having nothing. I wanted to portray this graphically, at a heightened level, with with visions of reportage-style images, shot with many different models in 'cardboard box' homes all over the streets with nothing more than beautiful clothes, almost as if nothing other than fashion mattered. With the brief came a change in direction, I went back to the root of my idea and began to think about how people live and interact in a township. I was able to spend two weeks observing its life and soul which laid the foundation of Ubami Basekasi".

UBAMI BASEKASI
Freddie Child-Villers 
ELLE Magazine SA


Freddie is self-taught photographer whose passion for taking pictures began at fifteen years. His prizes included a new NX10 Hybrid Camera, a Samsung R730 Notebook and Samsung XL2370 Monitor. In addition, he will be assisting ELLE photographers with editorials for the next three months.
Freddy's winning photograph was inspired by Zamayethu Township, now called Nelson Mandela Park in Cape Town. This is the first time ELLE includes Photography in their annual new talent awards.

CONGRATS FREDDY!

11.19.2010

Beauty Behind The Lens

Brennen Scott, Photographer

"Beauty is a word that embodies the physical reaction when human being see's another. There are conventional beauties and unique beauties, but either way a beautiful face is one that evokes immediate human reaction. 
When doing a beauty shot, I always find myself looking for a subject that embodies a natural beauty. I guess I have the idea that if I find a face closest to perfect then I'm lucky a photographer!"


Model: Sade
MUA: April Hicks 


11.18.2010

African Fashion: The Next Ten Years

The end of 2010 will mark a successful decade in African fashion. More designers emerged with incredible talent, drawing from both the modern world and cultural heritage. There has been growing support for exposure in the number of fashion weeks held per year, in Africa and abroad. ARISE has become a highlight event for designers who want to establish themselves, and is held up as an industry standard all other fashion shows seek to emulate.

ARISE African Collective during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NY and ARISE L’Afrique-à-Porter during Paris Fashion Week, are both a world stage for successful African designers to further establish themselves globally. David Tlale, Deola Sagoe, Stoned Cherrie, Loin Cloth & Ashes, Tiffany Amber and KLUK CGdT are some examples of African designers that have enjoyed international exposure and local success, and have had a strong impact on African fashion this decade,  and have significantly contributed to its progress.

As  2010 comes to a close, and another decade begins, what indicators can give us a clue about the nature of African fashion in the future? Here are my predictions:

1. Pop-up shops - fashion will no longer be exclusive and limited to those with deep pockets, but will infiltrate street-wear and have a greater influence on  how Africans dress and perceive fashion.

2. These days, it's not uncommon for fashion houses to be backed by investment banks, but how can African designers gain more bank without investors? One way is by producing affordable lines, even if not by partnering with huge established retailers. In the same way that designers are collaborating with retailers, e.g. Lanvin for H&M, we will see more outreach by established designers to reach low income consumers, such as students and young adults. 

3. More innovative ways of expanding the entrepreneurial or business side of fashion will increase. Examples such as Pulchritude and Lost & Found where young people who have been directly involved in the industry or grew up around the emerging fashion scene will find technologically innovative ways of making a buck from fashion.


4. Younger designers will find more experimental ways of infusing African heritage and culture into designing.  We're seeing more bags on the runway made of traditional cloth but in line with modern trends, and more shoes as well. This is great because in fashion, smaller and cheaper accessories are what bring in the most revenue.

5. As the internet becomes more accessible to a number of people, there will be an increase in online shopping. The best indicator for this is Facebook, which a lot of designers and small retailers are already  using as a cheap and effective marketing opportunity. The more mobile technology is improved, from the devices used to the accessibility of internet, the more consumers in Africa will shop online.

On another note, I am looking forward to seeing how designers will own current trends during the AUDI Joburg Fashion Week in February 2011, especially: Camel, Fur, Nude, Gold, Drapery dresses, Sheathed Lace and Feathers. 

Looking at last years trends, designers managed to put a spin on them and give them a look that encapsulated the designer's style: emphasized shoulders, night-wear as day-wear, feminine/pastel colors for menswear, animal print, florals, 70's feminine (flowing silhouettes) vs 80's rock (leather).

1. Stoned Cherrie - Shoulders With Attitude


2. Viyella - Metrosexual Man


3. Deola Sagoe - Tough but Feminine


4. KLUK CGdT - Innerwear as Outerwear


5. Thula Sindi - Animal Print


Images by SDR

11.15.2010

VLISCO - BENIN Fashion Show

VLISCO's mission is to provide high-end fashion brand for women. However, the increasing imitation of VLISCO designs offering low-end printed fabrics prompted a strategy change in 2006 which was implemented in mid-2007.  Some aspects of the strategy change include more emphasis on design, the introduction of VLISCO boutiques, quarterly collections with pre-determined themes, image campaigns, and consumer brand innovation. Presently, there are three boutiques in: Cotonou (Benin), Lome (Togo) and Abijdan (Cote D'Ivoire).
 
 "  Vlisco Et Moi: Une Poésie A Révéler"
Cotonou, Benin